D&C Red 21 Lake, Cosmetic Grade D&C Colorant

D&C Red 21 Lake sits within Kolortek's Cosmetic Matte Pigment range — a category of functional colorants used for flat, opaque color contribution rather than optical or special effects. Unlike the pearlescent, chameleon, or holographic pigments in the broader Kolortek portfolio, D&C lakes provide no shimmer or luster. Their role is chromatic: delivering consistent, saturated color to a formulation while remaining stable across a range of cosmetic vehicles.

Red 21 specifically is notable for its orange-red hue and moderate fluorescence under certain lighting conditions — a characteristic that contributes to its use in lip products where brightness and warmth are required. It is one of several D&C lake shades Kolortek supplies, and can be used alone or blended with other lakes or pigments to adjust depth, warmth, or tone.

Technical Specifications

Note: Permitted use areas for D&C Red 21 Lake vary by regulatory market. In the US (FDA 21 CFR), it is approved for general cosmetic use including lips. EU and other market permissions should be verified against current Annex IV listings before formulation. Contact us for up-to-date documentation.

Key Technical Characteristics

Lake form — insoluble, non-bleeding color: D&C Red 21 Lake is the aluminum-precipitated, insoluble form of the Red 21 dye. Unlike the soluble dye, it does not migrate through oil or wax phases, making it the correct choice for lipsticks, lip liners, and anhydrous nail products where color stability within the matrix is required.

Warm orange-red hue with moderate brightness: The tetrabromofluorescein chemistry gives Red 21 its characteristic warm, orange-leaning red — distinct from the cooler, blue-toned reds of lakes like Red 7 or Red 34. This makes it a useful mid-range warm red for blending, as well as a standalone color in coral and orange-red lip and nail shades.

Matte finish — compatible with effect pigment layering: As a matte colorant, D&C Red 21 Lake contributes color without optical interference. It can be used as a base color in formulations where pearlescent or metallic effect pigments are added separately — the lake provides the chromatic foundation, the effect pigment provides the luster.

Blendable with other D&C lakes and cosmetic pigments: Red 21 Lake blends predictably with other D&C lakes (e.g., Red 7 Lake for a cooler red, Yellow 5 Lake for an orange shift) and with iron oxides or ultramarines for depth adjustment. Kolortek supplies a range of D&C lake shades, allowing formulators to source compatible colorants from a single supplier.

Cosmetic-grade purity: The colorant is processed to remove heavy metal impurities (lead, arsenic, mercury) to levels consistent with cosmetic raw material standards. Certificates of analysis and regulatory documentation are available on request.

Applications

Formulation Notes

Dispersion: D&C Red 21 Lake is a fine powder that requires thorough dispersion to achieve uniform color and avoid agglomeration in the final product. In lipstick and lip gloss formulations, milling (three-roll mill or bead mill) into a portion of the oil or castor oil phase before adding waxes is standard practice. In nail lacquer, pre-dispersion in the solvent blend before adding resin is recommended.

Loading level: Typical use levels in lip products range from approximately 1–8% depending on desired opacity and shade depth. In nail lacquer, concentrations are generally lower due to the film-forming system. Recommended loading will vary with formulation — adjust based on trial.

Combination with effect pigments: When used alongside pearlescent or metallic pigments (e.g., Kolortek's KT 300 Gold or KT 500 Metal Luster series), add the lake colorant as part of the base dispersion first, then incorporate the effect pigment at a later stage with minimal shear to preserve platelet structure and avoid reducing luster intensity.

Deepening tone: Red 21 Lake can be used in small proportions to add warmth and depth to other red or pink shades — for example, adding a low level of Red 21 Lake to a Red 7 Lake-based formulation shifts the hue warmer and increases orange character without a full reformulation.

About Kolortek

Kolortek has supplied cosmetic-grade colorants and effect pigments for over 20 years, serving formulation teams in Europe, North America, and Asia. The D&C Lakes range is part of a broader cosmetic pigment portfolio that includes pearlescent mica, synthetic mica, borosilicate, and special effect pigments — giving formulators the option to source both base colorants and effect materials from a single manufacturer. Technical data sheets, certificates of analysis, and regulatory documentation are available on request for all cosmetic-grade materials.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the difference between D&C Red 21 and D&C Red 21 Lake?
A: D&C Red 21 is the soluble dye form of tetrabromofluorescein — it dissolves in certain solvents and can migrate through oil and wax phases in cosmetic formulations. D&C Red 21 Lake is the insoluble aluminum salt form, precipitated to create a pigment that stays fixed in the formulation matrix. For most cosmetic applications (lipstick, nail polish, pressed powder), the lake form is the correct choice. The soluble dye is used in specific applications where color flow is desired.

Q: Is D&C Red 21 Lake approved for lip use?
A: In the US, D&C Red 21 Lake is FDA-listed for use in cosmetics applied to the lips and face (21 CFR 82.1775). For other markets — EU, Canada, Japan, and others — buyers should verify current Annex listings with their regulatory team. Contact Kolortek for documentation relevant to your target market.

Q: Can D&C Red 21 Lake be used in eye products?
A: In the US, D&C Red 21 Lake is not approved for use in the area of the eye under FDA regulations. Permitted use areas vary by market — some jurisdictions may allow eye area use under different regulatory frameworks. Verify before including in eye shadow, eyeliner, or mascara formulations.

Q: How does D&C Red 21 Lake compare to Red 7 Lake in lip formulations?
A: Red 7 Lake (CI 15850:1) is a cooler, blue-leaning red — commonly used as a base for classic red lipstick shades. Red 21 Lake is warmer and shifts toward orange, making it more suited to coral, brick-red, and orange-red shades. Both can be blended; a Red 7 / Red 21 blend allows fine control over warm-cool red balance in a formulation.

Q: What other D&C lake shades does Kolortek supply?
A: Kolortek offers a range of D&C lake colorants across red, yellow, and orange shades commonly used in cosmetic formulation. Contact us for a current shade list and to request samples of specific shades for evaluation.

Q: Is documentation available for cosmetic ingredient listing?
A: Yes. Technical data sheets, safety data sheets, certificates of analysis, and CAS/INCI information are available on request for all D&C Lakes in Kolortek's cosmetic pigment range.

Request Samples or Regulatory Documentation

Whether you are developing a new lip color line, reformulating an existing nail product, or evaluating D&C Red 21 Lake against alternative colorants in your shade range, Kolortek can provide samples for formulation trials along with technical data sheets, certificates of analysis, and regulatory documentation for your target markets. Contact us to discuss your application and request what you need.